Yes, you should blow out your sprinklers in Colorado Springs before the first hard freeze. Aim for late September through mid October. Use 50 to 60 PSI for most zones, with 10 to 20 CFM from the compressor, and clear each zone until the mist fades, not until it is bone dry. Close the water supply, purge each zone in short cycles, and leave the backflow test cocks open at 45 degrees when you finish. If you want a fast, done-for-you option, schedule a sprinkler blowout Colorado Springs service and move on to the rest of your fall list.
Why blowouts matter more here than you think
Colorado Springs sits high and gets unpredictable swings. Warm afternoons can trick you. Night freezes still win.
– Early cold snaps arrive with little warning.
– Freeze and thaw cycles repeat, which stresses pipes.
– Windchill does not freeze water in pipes, but exposed parts lose heat faster.
– Backflow preventers sit above ground, so they are the first to crack.
I used to wait for a forecast that looked calm. Then we had a 28 degree night in late September, and several neighbors lost their PVB bodies. That got expensive. Ever since, I treat blowouts as non-negotiable.
Do the blowout before the first hard freeze. Waiting for a perfect forecast costs more than the service itself.
Local freeze patterns, in plain terms
– First freeze often lands in late September or early October.
– A warm week in October does not undo freeze damage.
– One hard freeze can crack a backflow, even if your lines under the lawn survive.
I know some systems have auto drains. Some do. Many do not. And even the ones that do often trap pockets of water at low points.
Soil and frost depth
Our soil mixes clay with rocky patches. Trapped water expands. Frost depth can vary across the same yard. A shaded slope will hold cold longer than a sunny corner. That is why you clear zones more than once instead of running a single long cycle.
Short, repeated air cycles move water to low points. That is where ice forms. Do not rush this step.
When to schedule your blowout
You do not need a perfect date. You need a safe window and a plan you stick to.
– Plan it for late September to mid October.
– If a hard freeze is forecast earlier, move sooner.
– If you are booking a pro, schedule before the rush. They fill up fast after the first cold night.
A few cues that help:
– Leaves start to fall in volume, not just a few here and there.
– Night temps bouncing around 32 to 36 degrees.
– First snow chance mentioned on local weather, even if it is a dusting.
What if you are behind
If early October slips by, get it done right away. Do not wait for the weekend. A quick, careful blowout midweek beats a cracked PVB on Saturday morning.
Tools and specs that actually work
You do not need fancy gear. You need air volume, a safe pressure, and the right fittings.
Air specs that are safe for most systems
– Pressure: 50 to 60 PSI for typical zones
– Pressure for poly pipe: stay closer to 50 PSI
– Pressure for PVC: up to 70 or 80 PSI if needed, though I rarely go over 60
– CFM: at least 10 CFM, 20 CFM is better for faster clearing
Many rental compressors have 185 CFM. That is fine if you regulate pressure and pulse the air. Do not send that volume through a single zone non-stop. It is overkill for most homes.
Keep pressure modest, use enough air volume to move water, and pulse zones. High pressure breaks things, not high CFM by itself.
Fittings checklist
– Quick-connect air hose with a ball valve, so you can control flow at the hose
– Adapter to your blowout port, often 1/4 inch or 3/4 inch male threads
– Teflon tape for a snug seal on the fitting
– A pressure regulator and a gauge you can see at the hose
If your backflow preventer has a test cock with threads, use that for a gentle connection. If your manifold has a dedicated blowout port, even better.
Recommended setup table
| Pipe type | Safe pressure range | Ideal CFM | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyethylene (black) | 45 to 55 PSI | 10 to 20 CFM | Go gentle, do more short cycles |
| PVC (white) | 50 to 70 PSI | 10 to 20 CFM | Most yards clear well at 60 PSI |
| Drip/micro lines | 15 to 25 PSI | Low flow | Better to open ends by hand |
Step by step blowout process
There are a few ways to do this. Here is the clean, safe approach I use on most homes.
Prep the system
- Turn off the water at the irrigation shutoff. Confirm by trying a zone, it should not build pressure.
- At the backflow preventer, set both ball valves to off, usually handles perpendicular to the pipe.
- Open the two small test cocks to 45 degrees to release trapped water.
- Attach your air hose to the blowout port or a test cock adapter.
- Set the regulator to 50 to 60 PSI to start.
Never run air through a zone nonstop for more than 2 to 3 minutes. Let heads cool for a minute, then cycle again.
Clear zones in a smart sequence
– Start with the zone farthest from the compressor connection.
– Run 2 minutes, watch for full water, then mist, then light spitting.
– Stop, rest for 60 seconds.
– Move to the next zone.
– When all zones have had one pass, repeat the loop one more time.
This sequence moves water to low spots and out of lateral lines. A single long blast dries the first few heads, then cooks seals and does not pull water from the rest of the run.
Special handling for spray vs rotor heads
– Spray zones purge fast, often under 2 minutes.
– Rotor zones hold more water, plan on two cycles.
– If a rotor keeps spinning on dry air, cut the run short. Heat is the enemy there.
Drip and micro zones
Drip lines do not like high pressure. If you can, open end caps and drain by gravity. If you must use air, drop to 15 to 25 PSI and pulse gently. Many drip regulators sit at 25 to 30 PSI, so feeding high pressure upstream can damage components.
Backflow preventer care
Most homes have a PVB or RP style backflow.
– After zones are cleared, crack the top cap on a PVB and tip it to let a few drops out.
– Leave both test cocks open 45 degrees.
– Leave both ball valves at 45 degrees, not fully open, not fully closed. That avoids water trapped behind the ball.
Wrap the backflow with an insulation cover when you are done. I used an old moving blanket for years, which was fine. A fitted cover looks cleaner.
Final steps
– Remove the air fitting and reinstall caps.
– If you have a drain at the manifold, open it to release any leftover water.
– Note any heads or valves that did not fire. Add them to your spring repair list.
DIY or hire a pro
I like DIY projects. That said, a pro with a tow-behind compressor and a tight process can finish in 20 minutes and spot issues you might miss. You can do it, it is not rocket science. You just need to respect pressure and take your time.
Here is a practical view, not a sales pitch.
| Option | What you get | Typical cost | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY with small compressor | Slower cycles, more time | $0 to $50, plus your time | Handy owners with 8 zones or less |
| DIY with rental compressor | Fast, strong airflow | $60 to $120 for a day | Larger systems, limited time window |
| Hire a local pro | One visit, documented, often warranty | $75 to $150 for most homes | Busy schedules, complex systems |
If you do hire, ask about pressure limits, backflow handling, and whether they cycle zones twice. A good sprinkler company Colorado Springs teams know the safe ranges and will not rush it.
If the quote feels low and the process sounds rushed, be careful. A slow, steady blowout is cheaper than a cracked backflow and a mid-winter emergency.
Common mistakes that break systems
I see the same five errors repeat every fall. These are easy to avoid.
- Using high pressure. Anything over 80 PSI is begging for trouble.
- Running zones too long. Heat builds in seals and rotors.
- Ignoring the backflow. Trapped water in a PVB is the first failure each year.
- Skipping drip line care. Small emitters are fragile, purge gently or open ends.
- Stopping after one pass. Pockets of water stay in low points without a second cycle.
Another one that is subtle. Some people blow out from the wrong side of the backflow and pressurize parts that should not see air flow that way. If you are not sure, use the dedicated blowout port or a test cock that feeds downstream only.
What to do if you already saw a freeze
Do not panic. You might get lucky. Check a few spots.
– Look at the backflow body for hairline cracks or drips.
– Open valve boxes and look for standing water.
– Run a short zone and listen for hissing when you shut it off.
If you find damage, a sprinkler repair Colorado Springs tech can usually replace a PVB body or a cracked fitting the same day. It is not fun, but it is fixable.
How long does a blowout take
It depends on zone count, though I do not want to lean on that phrase too much. Here is a quick guide.
| Zone count | DIY small compressor | Rental compressor | Pro visit |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4 to 6 | 45 to 60 minutes | 20 to 30 minutes | 15 to 25 minutes |
| 7 to 10 | 60 to 90 minutes | 30 to 45 minutes | 20 to 35 minutes |
| 11 to 16 | 90 to 120 minutes | 45 to 60 minutes | 30 to 50 minutes |
I prefer not to rush even the small jobs. Two steady cycles keep parts safe. Time well spent.
Real world tips I would give a friend
– Book early if you want a pro. Late calls go on wait lists.
– Put a bright tag on the irrigation shutoff so no one flips it back on by mistake.
– Take a quick video of each zone during blowout. It helps in spring to spot dead heads.
– Keep a small notebook of head counts and valve locations. Future you will thank you.
Keep your pressure under control, and give the system short rests. Heat is the silent killer in blowouts, not just ice.
How sprinkler blowouts connect to spring repairs
A careful fall process makes spring easier. During the blowout you often spot:
– Stuck valves that do not open or close cleanly
– Heads that do not pop or that sputter even before air arrives
– Low pressure zones hinting at a small leak
Make a list. In spring, when you do startup, you can plan sprinkler repair Colorado Springs work in one visit. That keeps your lawn on schedule and your budget steady.
What about Colorado Springs irrigation rules
Every year has its own watering guidelines. Once you blow out, you are done watering for the season anyway. If your HOA has common backflows, coordinate dates because a shared shutoff might affect your unit. I had one client with a shared manifold who set his own blowout, then found the neighbor turned the water back on the next day. A clear tag at the shutoff helps avoid that mess.
Landscape features that complicate blowouts
Not all yards are flat and simple.
Steep slopes
Water runs to the bottom of the slope. Expect more time on the lower zones. A third short cycle can help here.
Long runs to detached areas
Detached garages or back lots sometimes have a separate lateral line. Find and purge those from the nearest valve box, not only from the backflow.
Wells and pumps
Shut down the pump control before blowing out. Pumps do not like running dry, even for a second.
Hardscapes and raised beds
If you have new Colorado Springs hardscaping with under-cap drip, mark those lines and purge with care. Those fittings sit close to stone edges, which hold cold longer.
Bundling fall tasks
I like to group outdoor jobs on one afternoon.
– Blow out sprinklers
– Disconnect hoses and drain hose bibs
– Insulate the backflow
– Put away timers and wireless controllers if they are not weather rated
– Bag leaves from valve boxes so they do not hold moisture
If you plan any late-season pruning or a small patio project, get those done before you winterize the irrigation. Dust and debris in open boxes is not helpful.
What a pro visit usually includes
Every company has a slightly different checklist, and I think that is fine as long as the core steps are covered.
– Shutoff and backflow isolation
– Two cycles through all zones
– Drip handled at low pressure or by opening ends
– Backflow left vented, valves at 45 degrees
– Basic inspection, quick notes on repairs for spring
A good sprinkler company Colorado Springs crew will also give you a simple report. It does not need to be fancy. A few lines help you plan.
How to handle a broken backflow
If you see a crack on the backflow body after a surprise freeze, do not try to epoxy it. The fix is a replacement body or a rebuild. Prices vary by brand. Many parts are in stock locally, which helps. Shut off the irrigation supply and keep it off until you get the part swapped. A repair team can handle it, or a confident DIYer can, if local code allows.
Costs, and where the money goes
People ask why prices range. Fair question. Time on site is part of it. Travel time during the busy season adds up. Quality parts for fittings, insurance, and trained techs factor in too. Blowouts are not hard, but doing them carefully, hundreds per season, takes a clean process.
If you want to keep costs down:
– Schedule weekdays
– Be ready, gate unlocked, backflow accessible
– Mark any special zones, like drip for beds
Do you need a blowout if your system self drains
Some systems have auto drains that open when pressure drops. That helps. It does not remove water from the backflow or every low point. I have seen self-draining systems crack at a tee under a shady tree. If you are going to gamble, I would not choose the backflow as the bet.
A quick checklist you can print
- Shut off irrigation water
- Set both backflow ball valves to off
- Open both test cocks 45 degrees
- Attach air hose, set 50 to 60 PSI
- Start with the farthest zone
- Run 2 minutes, rest 1 minute, next zone
- Repeat all zones a second time
- Drop to 15 to 25 PSI for drip, or open ends
- Leave test cocks open, ball valves at 45 degrees
- Insulate backflow
Two calm cycles beat one aggressive blast. The goal is to move water out, not to dry plastic parts.
Spring follow through
When warm weather returns, plan a thoughtful startup. Open the water slowly, pressurize zones one by one, and look for leaks. This is where your blowout notes help. If you spotted a weak rotor in fall, fix it before you set the controller for daily runs. Problems are cheaper to fix before turf wakes up.
If you need help, look for Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization and spring startup crews that also handle repairs. One team that knows your yard tends to catch things faster.
Quick Q and A
When is the best week to blow out in Colorado Springs
Late September to mid October. If a hard freeze is coming sooner, move fast and get it done.
What pressure should I use
Most zones clear well at 50 to 60 PSI. Poly pipe likes the low end of that range. Rotor zones sometimes need a second pass at the same pressure.
How long per zone
About 2 minutes, then rest for a minute, then move on. Do a second cycle for all zones.
Can a small home compressor work
Yes, if you are patient. Lower CFM means more time. Keep pressure in range and pulse the air. If the unit overheats or struggles, pause.
Do I need to blow out drip
Yes, but gently. Open end caps where you can. If you use air, drop to 15 to 25 PSI and pulse lightly.
What if I already had a freeze
Check the backflow for cracks, check valve boxes for water, and try a short zone test. If you find damage, call for sprinkler repair Colorado Springs help and schedule a proper blowout once repairs are done.
Is hiring a pro worth it
If you value time and want a documented process, yes. If you enjoy DIY and can manage pressure and cycles, you can do it yourself. I like both paths for different reasons.
Got one more question that keeps nagging you about your setup? Tell me your zone count, pipe type, and whether you have drip, and I will suggest a safe pressure and a simple plan.
