If you live in Colorado Springs, you winterize your sprinkler system to keep pipes from freezing, cracking, and costing you hundreds of dollars in repairs. The most reliable way is a full blowout with an air compressor, done before the first deep freeze. You can do it yourself if you are careful, but many people choose a local service for Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization because one mistake can ruin a valve or a backflow. That is the short answer. The rest of this guide walks through what to do, when to do it, what tools you need, and a few honest thoughts on when DIY is probably not worth the stress.
Why winterization matters so much in Colorado Springs
Colorado Springs is not the coldest place in the country, but the temperature swings are rough on irrigation systems.
One day your lawn feels like fall. That night, it can drop well below freezing with almost no warning. I have had days where I thought, “I probably have another week,” and then woke up to a frozen hose and a crunchy lawn.
Sprinkler systems do not react well to these swings. Water expands when it freezes. When that water is trapped inside PVC or poly pipe, it pushes out on the walls. Over time, or in one bad night, that can crack fittings, heads, valves, or the backflow preventer near your house.
If you leave water inside your sprinkler lines in Colorado Springs, you are gambling with cracked pipes and surprise repair bills in spring.
Winterization is not about making your yard pretty. It is just about getting water out of the wrong places before the ground freezes hard.
What winter does to your sprinkler system
Here are a few things that actually happen in winter, beyond the usual “pipes can freeze” line that everyone repeats:
- Shallow lines freeze first and can split along the length of the pipe.
- Backflow preventers, which sit above ground, crack easily because they are thin and exposed.
- Plastic sprinkler heads trap water around springs and seals and can fail or leak later.
- Manual drain valves can freeze closed if a little water sits in the valve body.
Many homeowners do not see the damage until they run the system in April or May and find geysers or soft muddy spots in the yard. At that point, the damage is already there and you are paying for repairs instead of a simple winter service.
When to winterize sprinklers in Colorado Springs
This part stresses people out more than it needs to. You want to shut things down early enough to avoid a deep freeze, but not so early that your lawn dries out in fall.
Typical timing for Colorado Springs
Every year is a little different, but a rough window looks like this:
| Month | What usually happens | What you should think about |
|---|---|---|
| Late September | Cooler nights, light frost on higher spots | Plan winterization, check system for leaks |
| Early October | First light freezes, days still mild | Safe time to schedule blowout or DIY prep |
| Mid October | Hard freezes start to show up | Most systems should be winterized by now |
| Late October | Regular freezing nights | You are running late if water is still in lines |
Some years you will get a freeze warning in late September. Some years it holds off. I would rather be a little early than try to beat a cold front with a flashlight at 9 p.m.
Aim to winterize your system in Colorado Springs between late September and mid October, before overnight lows sit below 28°F for several nights in a row.
How to read the weather without overthinking it
You do not need to obsess over every forecast, but keep an eye out for:
- A predicted low in the low 20s or teens
- Several nights of freezing temperatures back to back
- Cold plus wind, which drives the freeze deeper into exposed parts
A single light frost does not always destroy a buried sprinkler line. The problem comes when cold digs in for a few days in a row. If you see that coming and your system is still on, it is time.
Know what type of sprinkler system you have
Not every system is built the same, and that changes how you winterize.
| System type | What it means for winterization |
|---|---|
| Manual drain system | Has valves you open to let water drain by gravity; sometimes enough in milder places, less reliable here |
| Automatic drain system | Uses auto-drain valves that open when pressure drops; still often paired with a blowout in colder climates |
| Blowout-only setup | Built with a compressor connection; standard approach for many newer installs |
If you are not sure which type you have, look for:
- A backflow device near the house with shutoff valves.
- Any drain caps or manual drain valves in valve boxes.
- A threaded fitting labeled “air” or a capped port near the main sprinkler shutoff.
You can usually figure it out with a quick look. If your system has been repaired or extended over the years, it might be a mix of styles, which is one reason professionals like to inspect before winter.
The three big parts of winterization
You can break sprinkler winterization into three main tasks:
- Shut off and protect the water supply and backflow.
- Remove water from lines and heads, usually by blowout.
- Shut down the controller and clean up for spring.
I will go through each part in detail. Some of this may feel obvious if you have winterized before, but small details are usually what cause problems.
1. Shutting off the water and protecting the backflow
This is the part people rush, and it is where a lot of damage happens in Colorado Springs. Your backflow preventer and exposed copper or PVC near your house are very vulnerable to freezing. They sit above ground and see the cold first.
Here is a basic sequence that fits most residential setups:
- Find the main sprinkler shutoff valve inside your house or in an insulated box outside.
- Turn off the sprinkler supply, not the water to the entire house.
- Go outside and find the backflow preventer. It usually looks like a metal or plastic body with two test ports and two valves.
- Turn the backflow valves to a 45 degree angle, so they are neither fully open nor fully closed. This relieves pressure and lets leftover water move.
- Open any small drain screws on the backflow, if your model has them, so trapped water can escape.
If you do nothing else, at least shut off the sprinkler water supply and relieve pressure at the backflow to give trapped water somewhere to go.
Some people wrap the backflow with insulation or a cover. That helps, but it is not a replacement for draining. Insulation slows temperature changes; it does not stop them forever.
2. Removing water from lines and heads
This is where blowouts come in. Gravity drains and automatic drains help, but on their own they are not very reliable in a place with regular deep freezes. Low spots in your yard trap water. So do swings in the pipe routing.
Gravity and auto drains
If your system has manual drain valves, you can:
- Turn off the main sprinkler supply.
- Open each drain valve and leave it open.
- Walk the yard and look for drain caps in boxes near the ends of lines.
Water will empty from higher points down to these drains. It is simple, but it never clears every pocket, especially on uneven ground.
Auto drains open when pressure drops, usually near the lowest point in a zone. These are nice on paper, but they sometimes clog with dirt or do not open fully. That is why many pros still perform blowouts on those systems.
Why blowouts are standard in Colorado Springs
A blowout uses compressed air to push remaining water out of pipes and heads. For our climate, with repeated hard freezes, this is the most consistent method.
It is not magic. Air goes in one side, water comes out the other. The trick is doing it at the right pressure and timing so you do not damage anything.
DIY sprinkler blowout: tools and basic steps
You can winterize your own system if you want to save money and do not mind a little risk. I will not pretend it is foolproof, but it is doable for many homeowners with some care.
Tools you typically need
- Air compressor that can deliver around 5 to 10 CFM at 50 to 70 PSI for home systems.
- Air hose rated for that pressure.
- Adapter to connect your compressor to the sprinkler blowout port or a hose spigot.
- Eye protection and hearing protection.
A small portable compressor meant for nail guns often does not push enough volume to clear long zones well. You can try, but you will likely run the compressor non-stop and still leave water in far runs. Some people rent a larger compressor for one day, which makes more sense in many cases.
General blowout process
Your exact setup may differ, but the usual pattern looks like this:
- Shut off the main sprinkler water supply.
- Connect your air hose to the system’s blowout port or a suitable connection.
- Make sure backflow valves are open in the direction air needs to travel.
- Set compressor pressure to a safe level for your system. Many residential systems use 50 to 60 PSI for PVC, sometimes a bit less for flexible pipe.
- Turn off all zones at the controller, then run one zone at a time in manual mode.
- Start air flow, watch sprinklers in the active zone, and wait until water mist turns mostly into air.
- Shut that zone off, let the compressor rest a bit if needed, then move to the next zone.
Take your time. Rushing and cranking the pressure to “get it done faster” is a good way to break something.
Common mistakes during DIY blowouts
I have seen, or heard about, the same problems again and again:
- Using too much pressure and blowing sprinkler heads apart.
- Leaving the compressor running on one zone for many minutes straight, which can overheat parts or stress fittings.
- Forgetting a hidden zone such as drip irrigation or a side yard line.
- Not draining or tilting the backflow after the blowout, leaving water in low pockets.
If any of those sound like something you might do when tired on a cold afternoon, there is nothing wrong with hiring someone. Winterization is cheaper than repairing a cracked backflow in March.
Manual drain systems vs blowout systems
Some homeowners in Colorado Springs still rely on manual drains. Others use a pro service every year. There is no single rule that fits every property, but you can compare the two approaches side by side.
| Approach | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Manual drains only | No compressor, simple, can be quick | Water pockets remain, higher risk of freeze damage |
| Blowout only | Removes more water, safer for complex yards | Requires compressor or service, more steps |
| Both drains and blowout | Most thorough, drains relieve trapped water before air | Takes more time, minor learning curve |
My honest view is that for Colorado Springs, relying on drains alone is a bit optimistic unless the system is very simple and you know exactly how it is laid out. For many people, a yearly blowout is just a normal part of owning an irrigation system, like changing oil in a car.
Caring for the backflow preventer through winter
Backflow preventers are mandatory in most areas because they protect drinking water from contamination. They are also one of the first things to fail in a freeze.
Steps to protect your backflow
- Turn off water to the sprinkler system inside the house.
- Open a low point drain inside, if available, to let water run back from the outside pipe.
- On the backflow, slightly open the test ports with a screwdriver to relieve water.
- Leave the shutoff handles at 45 degrees for the winter.
- Add an insulated cover or foam protection, especially if the backflow is very exposed.
Some people fully wrap the backflow in old towels and a plastic bag. I do not love using plastic that traps moisture directly on metal, but as a short term step before a storm, it helps. A proper insulated cover is cleaner.
What to do with the controller
The control box is easy to forget. It usually lives in the garage or inside the house where it never sees freezing air, but it still needs attention.
Settings for winter
You have a few options:
- Use the “off” or “rain” position so programs stay stored, but no zones run.
- Shut off power to the controller if you prefer, but check manufacturer directions.
- If you have a smart or Wi-Fi controller, set a winter schedule or disable watering until spring.
Most people leave the controller plugged in and just switch it off. That way, you keep all your run times saved, and you do not have to reprogram from scratch in April.
Batteries inside some controllers should be changed every year or two. Winterization time is a good reminder to check them.
Special cases: drip irrigation and shrub zones
Drip lines and shrub zones are easy to miss. They are usually lower to the ground, or the emitters are buried under mulch. Water in those lines can freeze and split fittings just like water in regular zones.
How to winterize drip lines
- Identify which zone on your controller runs the drip system.
- Include that zone in your blowout rotation, but reduce pressure since drip lines can be more delicate.
- Open the end caps or flush points to help water and air exit.
- After blowout, leave the ends closed again so debris does not enter over winter.
If your drip system is very simple, sometimes you can get away with just opening the end caps and letting gravity drain most of the water. In a long or complex setup, it is safer to combine this with a gentle blowout.
Signs you did winterization well
There is no perfect test without digging up the yard, but you can look for a few small clues.
- When you blow out zones, water starts strong and then fades to a light mist and air.
- No zone continues to spit heavy water after a reasonable blowout time.
- Backflow is drained, no obvious water trapped in the sight glass or body.
- Controllers are off, and the system stays quiet through winter.
In spring, if the system starts without leaks, soft sink spots, or odd bubbling sounds, that is another good sign that your winter prep worked.
Common winterization myths in Colorado Springs
People repeat a lot of advice that made sense somewhere else, but not here. Or that might have worked one year, but not every year.
“It did fine last year, so I can skip it again”
Maybe your system survived a mild winter without much damage. That does not mean it will always go that way. All it takes is one cold snap that is a bit deeper or a bit longer, and weak spots in the system give out.
“Manual draining is always enough”
That might be mostly true in warmer places. In Colorado Springs, with high altitude and sudden freezes, relying only on gravity is a risk. Some people accept that risk to save time or money. Others prefer a more complete approach. I lean toward “do it right once a year and forget about it.”
“Lowering the watering schedule is a form of winterization”
Reducing watering in fall is smart for the lawn, but it does nothing for the water trapped inside the pipes. You still need to shut off and clear the system.
Cost vs risk: when DIY is not worth it
I like DIY for many things, but with sprinklers in Colorado Springs, you have to balance the cost of a professional visit against the cost of mistakes.
Think about this:
- Replacing a cracked backflow can cost a few hundred dollars or more.
- Repairing broken lines under established landscaping can mean extra labor and plant damage.
- Chasing small leaks in spring can waste water and time.
If you are not confident with compressors, valves, or the layout of your system, paying for winterization once a year is often cheaper than one major repair.
On the other hand, if you understand your system, have a suitable compressor, and are careful with pressure, DIY can work fine. The key is honesty about your comfort level. If you find yourself guessing where to connect air or which valves to close, that is a signal to pause.
Preparing your yard around the sprinkler system
Winterization is not only about the mechanical parts. A few small steps in the yard can help your system and your lawn survive winter better.
Check soil and coverage before shutting down
Before you turn everything off, run each zone and look for:
- Heads that are tilted or sunken.
- Areas that are always wet or never wet.
- Broken or clogged heads that need replacement in spring.
Make a simple list on paper or in your phone. When spring comes, you will not remember every little issue. That quick list makes it easier to fix things before the first full watering cycle next year.
Mark hidden heads
If some sprinkler heads sit in tall grass or ground cover, mark them with small flags or stakes. Over winter, snow and ice can bend or push these down. Flags help you avoid stepping or driving over them when you cannot see the exact spot.
Frequently asked questions about Colorado Springs sprinkler winterization
What happens if I miss winterization one year?
You might be lucky, or you might not. Some systems survive a mild winter without much damage. Others crack in multiple spots after one bad cold snap. If you forget one year and wake up after a deep freeze, still shut off and drain what you can. Then watch carefully in spring for leaks or damp spots.
Can I just blow out the system once and be done, even if water still spits out?
If you still see a strong stream of water, keep going in short cycles. You do not need to reach perfectly dry air, but you want to remove most of the water. If heavy water keeps flowing no matter how long you blow, you might have the compressor connected in a poor spot or a valve partly closed.
Is it safe to use my small portable compressor from the garage?
It might work for short, simple zones, but many small compressors do not move enough air volume to clear long runs well. You can try, but you risk leaving water in distant parts of pipes. If that is your only tool, take it slow, keep pressure modest, and accept that it may not be as thorough as a larger unit.
Do I need to blow air through the backflow preventer too?
Often the air path does pass through the backflow. Some pros prefer to isolate it and drain it separately, depending on design. What matters is that water is not trapped inside the backflow body or above ground pipes. Draining through test ports and tilting valves slightly usually handles this.
How do I know what pressure is safe for my system?
Check the type of pipe you have. PVC usually handles higher pressure than flexible poly, but you still do not want to push the limits. Many residential blowouts stay under 80 PSI, often more like 50 to 60 PSI. If you are not sure, it is safer to stay at the lower end and take more time.
Is professional winterization really necessary if I am careful?
Not always. Plenty of homeowners do their own winterization for years without issues. Others damage a backflow or a valve on their first attempt. Professional help is less about “it is impossible without a pro” and more about risk and convenience. If the system is complex, or your comfort with tools is low, professional winterization is usually the calmer option.
What is one thing I should never skip?
If nothing else, always shut off the sprinkler water supply and relieve pressure at the backflow before the first deep freeze. That simple step removes a big chunk of the risk, even if you cannot get a full blowout right away.
